Liz and Chris Take a Trip

Chris already wrote about our time in Southern Laos but here are a few “She said” highlights and photo albums to add to the mix!

Pakse

Pakse (pronounced “pahk-see”) is mainly a stopping point for travelers to do one of two things: 1) Tour the Bolaven Plateau – either on motorcycle or group tour – to see waterfalls, villages and temples, and/or 2) Catch a bus/boat to the 4000 Islands in southern Laos. Chris and I had planned to do both, but after going south first to the 4000 Islands, we decided to keep going into Cambodia rather than backtrack to the Bolaven Peninsula.

So our time in Pakse was like a long layover in between places. Although there was little to do and see in Pakse itself, I ended up loving  the local nightlife.  After visiting Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng – two towns which thrive on tourism, and especially Vang Vieng which promotes “party tourism” with its boozy tube floats downriver, its “Drink Triple, See Double, Act Single” bar slogans and its brain-killer nitrous shots in balloon form – Pakse offered the welcome opportunity to experience a more laid-back night out.

There’s a stretch of riverside restaurants and bars along the Mekong where we found some fun things to see: a low key live band yowling love songs; a more upbeat Thai cover band at a bar buzzing with throngs of young, chatty, loud, happy, sometimes passed out youths (it almost seemed like someone had put vodka in the drinking water at an elementary school cafeteria); and, finally,  my favorite, a bar with a disco ball and dance floor where we got to see what I called the “Lao shuffle,” set steps that everyone seems to know, kind of like the Electric Slide, but to every single song.

Enjoying Pakse nightlight among what seemed like 18-20-year-olds. This guy was passed out at his table, but the server kept bringing more Beer Lao.

The old folks at the bar.

Everyone arrives (and leaves via scooter). Made me question the DUI laws here.

Chris and I were the only farang (foreigners) at this bar. The young kid who was serving us tried to overcharge us. Chris responded sarcastically in Thai with “Oh, everyone here must be rich,” shocking the kid so much that he laughed in surprise, said “ok, ok,” and gave us the correct price from the Laotian menu, which he was surprised to see Chris could read. #proudwife #takethat #totalbillwas3bucks #pakse #laos

We stopped at a food stand where a Lao guy who spoke really good English – with an Australian accent – greeted us. We had a last Beer Lao and noodles, while we watched his 3-week old puppy inadvertently get stepped on by a girl with 4-inch platform heels.

Mama noodles w/ pork and chicken.

For more Pakse photos:

15.06.04_Pakse

Si Phan Don and Don Khon

Si Phan Don literally translates to “4000 Islands” which is what the span of river dotted with islands between the southern Laos and Cambodia border is called. We chose to stay on Don Khon, the more laid back of the two major islands and where the waterfall and rapids sights are.

The 1km dirt road which made up most of the guesthouse / shops / restaurants on Si Phan Don Khon.

Temperatures were pretty high the week we spent on the islands, set solidly and unforgiving in the mid-90s. Still not acclimated to SE Asia’s temperatures – doubt we’ll ever be – we spent a lot of time hanging out in our fan-room bungalow or in the hammock on our lanai, saving the cool parts of the day (morning and late afternoon) to explore the islands. We rented bicycles two days in a row, and I again tested my ability to ride on narrow dirt roads. I did pretty well considering riding on the island often required negotiating rutted, narrow roads with huge potholes and slaloming through random chickens, dogs and cows which roamed freely.

My favorite ride was at sunset on the island of Don Det. We rode along the river and watched villagers wind down during the last few moments of daylight. Adults bathed in the river, kids played in the river, families cooked and gathered for dinner. We saw chickens and dogs, pigs leashed to trees, water buffalo and cows grazing. We even saw a small group of cows stealing fruit from a shake stand, the shake stand owner shooed them away with a machete as the thieves ran off with a bunch of bananas. Everywhere we went, kids half my size and on bigger bikes than me, would shout “hello, hello” and “sabaidee” (Laotian for “hello”), giggling as we responded back. Super cute! A great way to end our time in super friendly, welcoming Laos.

On our last afternoon on Don Khon, Chris and I split up so he could ride south to see an old French port where ships were dismantled and put on trains and I could catch sunset at the French Bridge. As I sat on the bridge, this woman and her grandson joined me. The woman and I tried communicating through hand gestures and repeating words that neither of us ultimately understood. She touched my arm, pointed at my skin, then touched her arm. I assumed she was talking about sun damage and skin care (just about everyone wants fair skin in Asia…even in the heat, most women wear long sleeves and pants). But as soon as I thought I understood what the woman was trying to communicate, she lifted her shirt and showed me her bare breasts, scooping them up and letting them fall flat several times. Totally stumped, I nodded my head desperately trying to understand but realizing I had no clue what she was talking about. As soon as the sun set, I got up, said nice to meet you and goodbye. She pointed determinedly at my camera, and so, I asked, “Do you want a picture?” She nodded “yes,” then swiped her grandson’s cap off his head and put it on hers for the photo opp. After I showed her this picture, she smiled, baring her toothless, betel nut ruined grin and walked away. #lostintranslation #dazedandconfused #boobs #donkhon #4000islands #laos

15.05.07_Don Khone